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The Glory Days of Gold in Alaska
Every time I travel to Alaska, I relish in the excitement of exploring something new about this state that has been called The Last Frontier. Alaska's diverse geological and political history provide a multitude of stories that lay the foundation for the birth of one of our youngest states. Even prior to officially becoming a state, in 1959, the history of Alaska holds many stories that make up the fabric of what Alaska is today. The Native peoples of Alaska have existed in this land for close to 30,000 years. When early explorers from both Russia, Europe and the "lower 48" began venturing into Alaska, they began tapping into resources including the fur trade, fishing and eventually the Gold Rush.
The days of "gold fever" in Alaska from the Yukon to the western sides of the state has long since subsided, but the remnants of those exhibitions remain as a testament to the quests of those seeking fortune in this rugged part of the country.
My latest venture in Alaska provided the opportunity to visit this unique park: the Independence Mine State Park. You would think that an old abandoned gold mine would not offer much spectacle, but the eeriness of the vacant buildings surrounded by the majestic mountains provide a unique experience. Walking silently with only the wind at your back, you can almost feel and hear the machinery and the miners at work. Thinking about the life they lead here, I was amazed at the tenacity of the workers and the hopes of turning all their labors into a future of wealth for themselves and their families.
When stories of the Alaskan Gold Rush surface, most people associate that with the Yukon and sites closer to the Canadian border. True, that is the proximity of where it all began. The discovery of gold near Juneau in 1880, and subsequently the Canadian Klondike, spurred a great deal of attention to Alaska sparking a gold rush that lasted over two decades. Just when that gold rush was winding down, around 1905, additional mines were established further west, towards the center of the state, including Independence Mine.
The first Independence Lode gold claims were discovered in the Willow Creek Mining District at Hatcher Pass in 1906. The most productive of these mines were Independence Mine and the Alaska Free Gold Mine, which were operated by a variety of companies until 1935, when Alaska-Pacific Mines, Inc. leased both mines. Then in 1938, the two mines were combined and Independence Mine became the second most productive hardrock gold mine in Alaska. (Hardrock mining is defined as using drilling and blasting to extract ore.) At its peak in 1941, the company employed 204 workers, blasted almost 12 miles of tunnels, and recovered 34,416 ounces of gold, today worth almost $18 million.
With the start of WWII, the gold mine was temporarily shut down because it was not considered an essential part of the war effort. After the war, the mine opened again briefly, but was permanently closed in 1951. Independence Mine State Historical Park was established in 1980 and since then the state has steadily worked to restore the buildings and tunnels to give visitors a fascinating look at Alaska lode mining amid spectacular mountain scenery. The site is also now on the National Register of Historic Places and covers 271 acres of restored structures and interpretive displays.
The park is nestled in Hatcher Pass, a mountain pass through the southwest part of the Talkeetna Mountains. The nearest cities are Palmer and Wasilla approximately 12 miles to the south. The heavily glaciated terrain with an abundance of streams create ribbons across the land. Those "ribbons" of water, sometimes aptly described as "braided rivers", that traverse the terrain seem so characteristic of waterways in Alaska. I remember seeing the same style of little waterways like this all over Denali National Park. It's a feature that is sometimes indicative of a glacial area, Incredibly high mountains rise steeply up on both sides of the pass. For a person like myself, a Midwesterner, I was not accustomed to the altitude and my ears popped several times. I guess that can happen when you are going this high- some of the highest peaks top out at about 6,000 feet. The terrain is also devoid of larger trees at this level, it is only brush and low vegetation. It presents a real rugged feel living up to it's name of the Last Frontier.
The terrain may look rugged , but possesses an incredible beauty and abundance of both plant and animal life. Even with this seemingly desolate place, a wide range of birds and animals are found here. With limited places to hide in such open terrain, they become experts in hiding. Animals found in this area include: Dall sheep, moose, eagles, ptarmigan, marmots, pika, arctic squirrels, and bears. Since the Little Susitna River originates here, this area also supports all five species of Pacific salmon. So depending on the time of year, it can be a fisherman's dream. Much of the water in this area is a unique turquois color because of glacial silt.
This region of Alaska the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, sometimes referred to as simply the Mat-Su Valley, encompasses 23,000 square miles of stunning mountains, glaciers, streams and lakes. The name represents the two rivers and valleys that form the region. Since the Valley begins only 35 miles north of Anchorage, it's a beautiful and convenient destination to take in many of the quintessential sights and discoveries that Alaska has to offer.
Julie E. Smith
(Specifics from the operation of the mine was obtained from the Alaska-Pacific Mining Company Records (UAA/APU Archives)
Photos by Julie E. Smith, unless otherwise designated
